The Italian Christmas sweet considered a national heritage
Panettone is considered to be the Italian Christmas sweet by excellence. Different legends reveal its origins, but they all agree that the birth of Panettone dates back to the 15th century, when, on the occasion of Christmas, delicious bread was baked and served by the head of the family.
The most well-known legend tells how once at Christmas in the Sforza house, the kitchen staff were preparing the dinner they would serve that evening. Doughnuts were being baked for dessert and Toni, a young apprentice, was in charge of supervising them once they were in the oven. Toni, tired after so many days of hard work, fell asleep for a moment, just long enough for the doughnuts to burn. In an attempt to solve the problem, he added flour, eggs, raisins and candied fruit to the yeast dough he had saved for his Christmas bread. The chef tasted the result and, surprised, decided that it should be served to the Sforza family and guests. It was such a success that it is said that the Duchess, after tasting it, uttered the Italian word «ottimo». From then on, the Milanese called this sweet «pan de Toni», which evolved into today’s panettone.
It was not until the 1920s that the pastry chef Angelo Motta studied the original recipe and adapted the ingredients and shape, and found a way to produce it in large quantities. This is how panettone started to be on the Christmas table of thousands of people, both Italian and foreign. Today, the «panettone artigianale» is a registered trademark and has to comply with the artisan production process.
We share the value of tradition and the know-how of the crafts. The beauty of what tells a story. The way to enjoy around the table and to share the spirit of Christmas.
El dulce de Navidad italiano considerado patrimonio nacional
El panettone es el dulce de Navidad italiano por excelencia. Diferentes leyendas narran su origen, pero todas coinciden en situar el nacimiento del Panettone en el siglo XV, cuando con motivo Navideño, elaboraban panes muy ricos que servía el cabeza de familia.
La más conocida cuenta que una Navidad en casa de los Sforza, el personal de cocina estaba preparando la cena que servirían aquella noche. De postre se estaban cocinando rosquillas y Toni, un joven aprendiz, era el encargado de supervisarlas una vez en el horno. Este, debido al cansancio tras tantos días de intenso trabajo, se quedó dormido un momento, lo justo para que se quemasen. En un intento de solucionarlo, añadió a la masa de levadura que se había guardado para su pan de Navidad, harina, huevos, pasas y fruta confitada. El jefe de cocina probó el resultado y, sorprendido, decidió que el dulce se sirviese a la familia Sforza e invitados. Fue tal éxito que se dice que la duquesa, al probarlo, pronunció la palabra «ottimo». Desde entonces, los milaneses llamaron a este dulce «pan de Toni», derivando en el actual panettone.
No fue hasta los años 20, cuando el pastelero Angelo Motta estudió la receta original y adaptó los ingredientes y la forma, logrando además la manera de producirlo en grandes cantidades. Así es como el panettone comienza a estar en la mesa de Navidad de miles de personas, italianas y extranjeras. Hoy, el «panettone artigianale» es una marca registrada y tiene que cumplir el proceso de elaboración artesanal.
Compartimos el valor de la tradición y el saber hacer de los oficios. La belleza de aquello que cuenta una historia. La forma de disfrutar alrededor de la mesa y de compartir el espíritu de la Navidad.
Grabado de Ludovico Sforza del siglo XIX
Ludovico Sforza, 19th-century engraving
Fotografía antigua del negocio de Angelo Motta
Antique picture of Angelo Motta’s business
1919, el primer local de Angelo Motta en Via della Chiusa
1919, Angelo Motta’s store in Via della Chiusa
Anuncio antiguo de panettone Motta
Antique ad of panettone Motta
Fotografías antiguas del negocio de Angelo Motta
Antique pictures of Angelo Motta’s business
Words: Las Perelli
Photographs: Angelo Motta
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