Origin of the Spanish Christmas sweet of Epiphany
Roscón de Reyes is a Spanish gastronomic tradition of this period of the year. It is common practice in all homes to eat Roscón on 6 January, the day on which the adoration of Jesus by the Three Wise Men is celebrated.
The origin of this tradition dates back to the Roman Saturnalia, festivities which were celebrated in Ancient Rome in honour of Saturn, God of agriculture, on the occasion of the onset of the winter solstice, which brought longer days and the end of the winter sowing season, which allowed slaves to rest for a few days. A public banquet was held and Roman citizens exchanged gifts. Each year, a round cake was made with figs, dates and honey in which was hidden a fava bean, a symbol of prosperity, which gave the title of «King of Kings» to the slave who was given it, allowing him to be free during the Saturnalia.
In the 4th century, when Christianity became the official religion of the Empire, these festivals were gradually replaced by Christian celebrations. The tradition became less important except in France, where the Roi de Fave (King of the Bean) was celebrated. To celebrate Epiphany, each village gave a sweet bun to the poorest children and whoever found the bean received gifts and privileges.
In the 18th century, Louis XV included a gold coin which meant that no one wanted the bean, and finding it was no longer a prize. It was Philip V who introduced this tradition in Spain, maintaining the duality between reward and punishment. Later the coin was replaced by a figurine and the person who found the bean had to pay for the roscón.
We share the value of the tradition. The beauty of the customs makes us enjoy our time around the table.
Origen del dulce navideño español de la Epifanía
El Roscón de Reyes es una tradición gastronómica española de este período del año. Es costumbre, que en todas las casas se tome Roscón el 6 de enero, día en que se celebra la adoración de Jesús por los Reyes Magos de Oriente.
El origen de esta tradición se sitúa en Las Saturnales romanas, fiestas que se celebraban en la Antigua Roma en honor a Saturno, Dios de las agricultura, con motivo de la entrada del solsticio de invierno que traía días más largos y el fin de la siembra invernal que permitía descansar a los esclavos durante unos días. Se ofrecía un banquete público y los ciudadanos romanos intercambiaban regalos. Cada año, se elaboraba una torta de forma redonda con higos, dátiles y miel en la que se escondía un haba, símbolo de prosperidad, que otrogaba el título de «Rey de Reyes» al esclavo que le tocase, permitiéndole ser libre durante Las Saturnales.
En el siglo IV, cuando el cristianismo se convierte en la religión oficial del Imperio, estas fiestas se van sustituyendo por las celebraciones cristianas. La tradición fue perdiendo importancia salvo en Francia, donde se celebraba el Roi de Fave (Rey del haba). Para celebrar la Epifanía, cada pueblo regalaba un bollo dulce a los niños más pobres y quien encontrase el haba recibía regalos y privilegios.
En el siglo XVIII, Louis XV incluyó una moneda de oro que hizo que nadie quisiese el haba, y que encontrarla ya no fuese un premio. Fue Felipe V quien introdujo esta tradición en España manteniendo la dualidad entre premio y castigo. Más tarde la moneda se sustituyó por una figurita y la persona que encontrase el haba tenía que pagar el roscón.
Compartimos la puesta en valor de la tradición. La belleza de las costumbres hacen disfrutar alrededor de la mesa.
Retrato de Felipe V. Recorte del grabado realizado por Juan Minguet, 1760
Portrait of Felipe V. Cut from the engraving by Juan Minguet, 1760
Roscón de Reyes, by El Horno de Babette (Madrid)
Roscón de Reyes, by Panod (Madrid)
Symposium (The Banquet), Anton Von Werner
Words: Elena & Beatriz Perelli
Photographs: Pierre Hermé, Horno de Babette
© Elena & Beatriz Perelli, 2024 | All rights reserved
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